This is, sadly, the last post in our Off to Alaska tour. There are two things we think you absolutely must do while in Alaska: one, take a bus tour through Denali National Park and two, take a boat tour through Kenai Fjords National Park.
We took a 9-hour tour, starting from the harbor heading about 75 miles to a glacier and back through Kenai Fjords National Park with Kenai Fjords Tours. The tour is $184 per person, including breakfast and lunch (surprisingly good), and was well worth the price. The captain was extremely knowledgeable, giving information throughout the tour, and I don’t know it if it was just luck, but we saw plenty of wild life, though my camera wasn’t that great at capturing it.
Before the tour
We saw some jellyfish, apparently there is an abundance of phytoplankton and zooplankton in the fjord estuary
Seagulls! Wow. But you can see some scale based on the size of them coming out of that cave
Looking out at distant glaciers
Hopefully the pictures speak for themselves. All in all, we highly recommended the Kenai Fjords Tour if you’re not used to seeing fjords, whales, sea lions, orcas, glaciers and puffins… which I think is many of us.
First of all, Sarah Palin, you are a liar. I never got to see Russia from where we were staying, which was quite the disappointment as I’ve heard Putin’s winter coat should just be coming in. But, the scenery more than makes up for it in Alaska.
Driving between the major cities, Anchorage and Fairbanks, takes about six or seven hours. Being battle-hardened road trippers, Mandy and I had no problems here, and the mid-point between the two cities is Denali National Park, which is just pants-on-head, stupid beautiful. If we had any hard feelings about leaving Fairbanks, it was only because the farm we were staying at was so nice. The rest of the trip was pretty okay, but I didn’t feel like we were really mourning our leaving of the city as much as our dwelling.
If you’ve spent time anywhere else in Alaska, your first impression of Anchorage is that it’s much more of a city than most other places.
In fact, Anchorage is the most populated city in Alaska, at ~292,000 people. The second biggest is Fairbanks, at ~31,535. The difference in population of the most populated to second most populated is around 257,000 people. As you can expect, there is a lot more to do in Anchorage. We tried to hit as much as we could in our week there. I think we did alright.
On our first day in Anchorage, we did some sightseeing in downtown where Mandy managed to make it to almost all (two out of three, ain’t bad) of the yarn shops and we took a humbling, interactive hike that detailed the sort of destruction a 9.0+ earthquake wrought upon the city in ’64. I also slipped down a muddy hill, thoroughly ruining everything I was wearing for the day. All in all, 10/10, would embarrass myself in front of locals again.
Our second day was spent on an eleven hour boat tour of Kenai Fjords in Seward, Alaska. Much like the Denali trip, we’ll give this section its own post, but glaciers, whales, puffins, and sealife abound.
The rest of our trip consisted of a lot of hiking, sightseeing, and coffee drinking. Anchorage actually has more espresso stands, per capita, than anywhere else in the US.
The hike was an extreme uphill stair climb against gravity, and when you got past the steps, you were rock climbing the west of the way to the top. Combined with mossy, loose rocks and slippery mud, it made for a harrowing climb. But in the end, as always, we conquered the mountain and were in for a hell of a view at the top. You could see most of Anchorage and the Seward peninsula leading out into the ocean, as well as a fantastic backdrop of mountains. The climb down was actually a lot easier, as you could crab-walk most of the way.
Views from the trail
Go, John, go!
Where’s the trail?
Mandy and John on top of the world, or at least Anchorage, AK
If you look closely, you can see the parking lot to the right of those hills.
These guys had the right idea – jump back down to the parking lot!
About 40 minutes out of Anchorage, this trail system felt a lot more removed from the city than the other trails. There are salmon and beaver viewing decks, along with meandering, shady trails. The Rodak Nature Loop is nice and easy, probably taking no more than 30 minutes to go around if you stop for a bit at the viewing decks. The Dew Mound trail comes off of the Rodak Nature Loop, it’s an easy but not boring hike. We swear we heard a wolf howling a few times while we hiked!
Dew Mound Trail starts after the Rodak Nature Loop
John on the Dew Mound Trail, watching for bears!
From the salmon viewing deck
Taking a break from nature, we walked the Anchorage Museum and saw tons of native Alaskan art and tools. We watched a talked-up movie about the aurora that was of horrendous quality, with seats out of a medieval torture manual – seriously, don’t pay for this unless you can get in the viewing room first.
By the end of the trip, we had put 2000 miles on our rental car, but there is still so much more out there waiting to be seen. A monumental state with monumental qualities, Alaska is not a state to be experienced in a matter of weeks. Regardless of the time you have, anybody that considers themselves a fan of nature should pack a bag and head off to Alaska.
With minimal planning — as we now like to do because we’ve realized jam-packed weeks of vacationing are tiring — we attempted to leave Denver for Fairbanks, Alaska two weeks ago. After a delayed flight, we managed to make it to Fairbanks a day later than expected.
Just a traveling tip here, if you call your hotel to let them know you won’t be able to make it for the first night of many nights of your reservation, be sure you are positive they understand you still want to stay the subsequent nights of your stay! We got to our hotel to find out that they had sold our room even though we had called them. We holed up in a Motel 8 instead and fell promptly asleep, hoping to make up our lost time in the coming days.
Fairbanks is a big place to navigate, but a small place to live and hang out. Maybe there’s not much to do in the summer, or maybe we just didn’t plan enough. Most of the roads are filled with construction crews trying to finish their work before winter sets in. There’s plenty of hiking to do, but the summer days seem to be typically overcast and rainy, making pretty miserable hiking weather.
We spent the next couple of days at Chena Hot Springs Resort, hoping to catch some sights of the aurora and to bask in the hot springs located on sight. The resort was…pretty alright. The room we stayed was sparse, and the cabin itself was being painted and renovated, which led to much noise and cigarette smoke through most of the day and night. The weather was not very cooperative, resulting in a nonstop overcast sky and rain throughout most of our stay, which was not conducive to viewing the aurora, so we missed out there. But, the hot springs, pool, and jacuzzi, as well a pretty great restaurant made up for some of the trouble.
Caribou kept at the resort
Little cottage on the resort grounds where you can buy a massage
Mushrooms we found on the trail
John, pretending to be excited about this very boring trail we took around the resort
Chena Hot Springs Resort was covered in flowers and vegetables
John, enjoying dinner at the restaurant at the resort
There was a stinky goat and chicken pen on the resort grounds
We left Chena feeling indifferent about Fairbanks, moving on to our next base of operations for the rest of our trip, a small farm cabin on a sheep farm via Airbnb. The cabin at Arctic Roots Farm was clean and comfortable, surrounded by tons of flowers, with a great view of the pasture and mountains from the living room and porch. Unexpectedly, the couple that runs the farm also provided homemade continental breakfast each morning — scones, banana bread, homemade yogurt and strata. Needless to say, our stay in the cabin on the farm really perked up our moods after becoming a bit jaded while staying at the ‘resort’.
This is one of the first places we visited and the museum inside is definitely worth a visit. It’s free and a bit interactive, full of information about Fairbanks culture and wildlife. The first thing we realized about Fairbanks while viewing the exhibits is that it seemed like most of the action seems to occur during the snowy winters.
Musk Oxen are the providers of one of the softest, warmest fibers available on earth, so they were the reason we went to visit the Large Animal Research Station (LARS for short). At the station, you can get fairly close to musk oxen and caribou/reindeer. Take the $10 tour to learn a lot of interesting facts about the animals and the research that the University of Alaska Fairbanks does regarding these animals.
The Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum was one of the places we’d actually planned on going before heading out to Alaska, we weren’t expecting too much but were pleasantly surprised at the size and quality of this museum. We’re not huge car enthusiasts, but really loved walking through the museum and seeing all of the antique cars. Antique dresses and fashion accessories were displayed alongside the cars, which gave you a feel for what women were wearing while riding around in these cars.
Learned that the first Audubon Society was started because of the overuse of feathers in fashionable hats
John trying on hats
The museum displays women’s fashion trends alongside the cars
Loved the typography / logos on all of the antique cars
I’m not sure if we just weren’t looking at Pioneer Park the right way, but we found this (luckily free) park to be a bit depressing. It’s full of historic cabins that have been converted into shops and cafes, playgrounds and museums. It seemed like a place that used to be exciting and fun but lost the excitement along the way. But hey, it was free.
A creepy old bedroom
Cool raven art
Lonely street in Pioneer Park
Steese Highway Scenic Byway
Perhaps if the weather was clearer, this drive would have been better but it just felt boring. We turned around after a couple of hours, having gone that long hoping the next turn would reward us with amazing views of… anything. The only interesting thing we saw on half of this byway was part of the Trans-Alaskan Pipeline.
Someone offered to take our picture in front of the pipeline
We felt like we could have been anywhere with views like this
Another view on the byway
After making it to the farm, the weather began clearing a little and we decided to make our trips to Denali Nat’l Park, which we’ll save for its own blog post, but suffice to say, it was absolutely incredible. After multiple trips out to the park, across mountains and massive straights of amazing scenery and roads, finally catching the aurora, and seeing the highest mountain peak in North America, we had had our fill of Fairbanks, and knew that Anchorage was calling for us.
It’s been a couple of months since our last travels. John is getting ready to start school in September, so when my sister Jessy asked if we wanted to join her on a trip to Colorado, we jumped on it. One last hurrah!
There’s not much you have to say about Colorado, pictures are enough, so here goes:
We visited Red Rocks twice during this trip, once for a Walk the Moon concert and again for Yoga on the Rocks. Looking up from a concert or while in a warrior pose to see that breathtaking view was amazing.
This Colorado hike is absolutely beautiful. It was a little rough for some of us Floridians, as we still weren’t used to the altitude, but totally worth it. It took us about 5 hours round trip, we saw 3 or 4 waterfalls and the top of the trail takes you to Diamond Lake near the top of the mountains.
Estes Park, Colorado
Colorado is beautiful in August and the weather is amazing, especially in the mountains where it gets a bit cooler (a wonderful contrast to Orlando). We highly recommend the 4th of July trail and, of course, a visit to Red Rocks Amphitheater for the sunrise or sunset!
Since we were driving home from Pittsburgh once again, we thought we’d try to take some of the Blue Ridge Parkway.
We drove the North Carolina portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway, starting at the entrance nearest I-77. I had read before we chose our entrance point that if you have limited time, the North Carolina bit is more scenic than the Virginian because it is much more mountainous.
We spent about 7 hours on the parkway from I-77 to Asheville, where we called it quits.
For the most part, the drive was really lovely, but we are still really spoiled by our recent trip to Oregon. After about an hour or so on the scenic route, I stopped asking to pull in to every single photo area.
There’s not much more to say about Evans Knob than John already said. We completed our two weeks of WWOOFing yesterday and are really sad to have to go back to our normal lives. Kathy, Reid and the rest of the Evans family (pets included), all really made us feel at home, useful and appreciated.
The featured image is an epic shot of the ducks that John took with his iPhone. We’re all a bit amazed at how well it turned out.